On Monday night a few of the nation’s most celebrated cooks, beverage professionals, restaurateurs and bakers crammed Chicago’s Lyric Opera Home for the thirty fifth annual James Beard Basis Restaurant and Chef Awards. The awards are thought of a few of the highest honors in hospitality, and this 12 months, amid nationwide deportations and a mounting tradition of worry, winners all through the night time honored immigrants: typically the unsung employees working in restaurant kitchens.
“We tell stories,” stated Kato chef-partner Jon Yao, “stories of immigrants, diaspora, endurance and perseverance.”
Yao, middle, with Kato enterprise companions Nikki Reginaldo and Ryan Bailey in 2022.
(Mariah Tauger / Los Angeles Occasions)
Yao received the 2025 class of greatest chef: California. At his fine-dining restaurant within the Arts District — No. 1 on the L.A. Occasions 101 Checklist for the final two years in a row — he serves a pioneering tasting menu evocative of his Taiwanese heritage seen via an L.A. lens.
Yao’s win marks the third 12 months in a row {that a} Los Angeles nominee took the title of greatest chef within the state. In 2023 Justin Pichetrungsi of Anajak Thai received the class, whereas final 12 months the honour went to Kuya Lord chef-owner Lord Maynard Llera.
Yao is the one Los Angeles or Orange County nominee to win an award at this 12 months’s Restaurant and Chef Awards ceremony.
The Kato chef was a semifinalist or nominee within the rising star class in 2018, 2019 and 2020.
Yao, a baby of Taiwanese immigrants who grew up within the San Gabriel Valley, thanked everybody on Kato’s group, each previous and current. He underscored the significance of immigrant delicacies not just for Kato but additionally Los Angeles.
Yao’s tuna with coriander and chile at Kato in 2024.
(Myung J. Chun / Los Angeles Occasions)
“L.A. is a city built by the toils of immigrant communities, and right now, those same communities are being ripped apart,” Yao stated in his acceptance speech. “As the children of immigrants, I’m sure many here can imagine a scenario where we couldn’t be here to celebrate this all together. But we all deserve the freedom to pursue our dreams, to determine our own futures and to be treated with equal dignity and respect. And everyone in this room tonight has the ability and voice to amplify that message through their own stories in their own communities, and I urge all of us to please use that voice and platform.”
The culinary contributions of immigrants might be heard in acceptance speeches via the night time, throughout a spread of cultures. Cooks, restaurateurs and meals media often praised America’s range of taste, extensively crediting immigrants.
“All food is immigrant, and immigrants make America great,” Miami chef Nando Chang stated when he received greatest chef: South.
“We’re gathering at a time of challenge and fear,” Clare Reichenbach, chief government officer of the James Beard Basis, stated within the ceremony’s opening speech.“That’s why it is so important to remember the agency we possess, that hope and empathy are an active choice we can make, and that we’re connecting tonight in our shared humanity and in the celebration of food and its unique power to unite. … America’s food scene has never been more dynamic, more diverse and exciting — and in large part, we owe that dynamism, that vibrancy, to the immigrant communities that lead and underpin this industry in every way. We get to taste the world because of them.”
Washington, D.C., chef Carlos Delgado of Causa and Amazonia accepted the award of greatest chef: Mid-Atlantic and voiced his help of immigrants whereas his colleague proudly carried a Peruvian flag to the stage.
San Juan’s Identidad received Finest New Bar, and its house owners carried a Puerto Rican flag for his or her acceptance speech. “I want this to serve as an inspiration to all Puerto Ricans — and Latinos — that it can be done,” co-owner Stephen Alonso stated.
Finest chef: Nice Lakes winner Noah Sandoval of Chicago’s Oriole, couldn’t attend the night’s ceremony, so a pal learn a press release in his stead: “Thank you, and deepest respect to all the nominees and winners tonight. Also, f— ICE.”
When Kumiko proprietor Julia Momosé accepted the award for Excellent Bar, she underscored the significance of immigrants not solely to her personal Chicago institution, but additionally the trade. “Every day we are a team of immigrants,” she stated. “We are children of immigrants … your perspective is your strength.”
Meals author Toni Tipton Martin photographed in 2019.
(Mariah Tauger / Los Angeles Occasions)
Los Angeles native, former L.A. Occasions meals author and group activist Toni Tipton-Martin acquired the lifetime achievement award, celebrating her a long time of contribution to meals journalism by elevating African American culinary voices and platforming younger writers.
Final 12 months Ruth Reichl, one other Los Angeles Occasions Meals vet, acquired the lifetime achievement award. Tipton-Martin thanked Reichl in her personal acceptance speech for serving to to information her culinary voice early in her profession.
Although most of Southern California’s nominees didn’t win this 12 months, their contributions to the county’s culinary cloth had been nonetheless acknowledged.
Heritage Barbecue chef and co-owner Daniel Castillo in his new Santa Ana restaurant, Le Hut Dinette.
(Stephanie Breijo / Los Angeles Occasions)
“You are not just an incredible pitmaster, but you’re incredibly creative, and you’re sort of creating a style of barbecue that you call Southern California barbecue,” meals journalist and purple carpet host Francis Lam instructed Daniel Castillo earlier than the ceremony. “It’s not Texas barbecue, it’s not Carolina barbecue, but Southern California barbecue.”
Castillo co-owns San Juan Capistrano’s Heritage Barbecue and Santa Ana’s Le Hut Dinette, and was nominated for greatest chef: California, which Yao received. San Diego’s Tara Monsod, of Animae and Le Coq, was additionally a nominee within the class.
Gusto Bread, the Lengthy Seashore artisanal panadería from house owners Arturo Enciso and Ana Belén Salatino, was nominated within the class of excellent bakery because it additionally was in 2024. The lauded bakery didn’t win this 12 months; that award went to JinJu Patisserie in Portland, Ore.
Tropical drink the Taro Colada with lumpia and garlic shrimp at Sturdy Water in Anaheim.
(Stephanie Breijo / Los Angeles Occasions)
Anaheim’s Sturdy Water is extensively celebrated for its spins on traditional tiki drinks in addition to its formidable nonalcoholic program. Like Gusto it was nominated in 2024, however this 12 months’s award for excellent wine and different drinks went to Charleston in Baltimore, Maryland.
Redbird bar director Tobin Shea was nominated within the class of excellent skilled in cocktail service, which went to Ignacio Jimenez of New York Metropolis’s Superbueno. Whether or not he was going to win or lose, Shea beforehand instructed The Occasions that he could be celebrating: This 12 months’s awards fell on the week of his fiftieth birthday. “It’s going to be a great week,” he stated.
On Saturday night time the muse held its annual media awards, which have a good time the 12 months’s high culinary books, articles, tv, radio and extra. Los Angeles Occasions restaurant critic Invoice Addison, columnist Jenn Harris and Meals senior editor Danielle Dorsey all noticed nominations this 12 months.
Andrea Freeman — a professor at L.A.’s Southwestern Legislation Faculty — took the award within the class for meals points and advocacy together with her e-book “Ruin Their Crops on the Ground: The Politics of Food in the United States, from the Trail of Tears to School Lunch.”
L.A.-based journalist Jeff Gordinier, together with artist and designer George McCalman, received the M.F.Ok. Fisher Distinguished Writing Award for Meals & Wine article “The City That Rice Built.”
One other Los Angeles-based creator, Gastropod podcast co-host Nicola Twilley, additionally received an award. Her e-book “Frostbite: How Refrigeration Changed Our Food, Our Planet, and Ourselves” led the class of literary writing.
The total checklist of the 2025 James Beard Media Award winners will be discovered right here.
